The weather in Coolangtta on the Gold Coast has been sunny and hot. Robert had the tummy bug when we arrived so he had the first week in bed. Sharleen and Jasmin came up from the weekend then the next one Jasmin came to stay while the boys did a tri-Athlon in Kingscliff. Jasmin and I played cards and she won. (only because I was under the weather. Got Robs bug but only for 24hours) no, credit where credit due she deserved to win.
We caught up with cousin Judy Brownlee-Kennedy and her daughter Renee, who is coming over to live in the Gold Coast. They were only staying 500meters away and then came to stay with us for a couple of nights. We had a lot of fun on the spinning wheel at the RSL. No one won but we laughed a lot. The next week we had our 2 bridesmaid come to stay. Nina Green and partner Derek from Whangarei NZ. And Lorraine nee Cotterill ex Whangarei now in Perth. What a great time we had. Laughed, got lost when we went for a drive, shopped and ate. Played the spinning wheel where we were asked to quieten down as we were yelling (mostly Lorraine) when we got a winner. It was fun.
I had a great birthday on the 12th April. Sharleen and family and Renee, came up for lunch, we played putt putt, my team with Glenn and Zac won. Went swimming then Sharleen and family went home. Pat and Wally joined us at the Golf Club for buffet. What a great birthday I had with my good friends to share it with.
We had our van checked out be Auto electrician and also had the wheel bearings checked so all should be Ok. Thought we needed new batteries but the guy said they were fine.
Finally our time in the apartment came to an end on Thursday the 17thmuch too quickly. Left to pick up the van Thursday morning and was down at Lismore, Sharleen’s by 12.00. It is good to be in the van again. Played cards, etc with the kids. On Good Friday we had lunch with the street what a great neighborhood Sharleen is leaving. Their family is loved in the street. Saturday Rob and I took the kids to KFC for lunch then we went 10 pin bowling. Zac won the first game, I won the same second with the exact same score. We had some fun. Sunday over to Kyogle for lunch with Maxwell’s. Nice to see them all. Monday Easter eggs and shopping getting ready to go Wednesday. Have to get a new door handle as I slipped and broke it. There was no one opened until Tuesday. Door handle replaced. All ready to leave on our trip.
On the road and it feels great. Even though we have been on this road down past Tenefield, and Glen Innes it seems different as the land is green and it looks more like home. The first night we spent just outside Bingara, a nice little town and somewhere we hadn’t been before. Lovely river running through and green parks. We stopped be a rocky river that was the glacier route. Granite rocks and a little water is all there is to show for it now. Weather not too bad. We took our time to get to Broken Hill, stopped at Cobar where Sharleen lived and it hasn’t changed, in fact I think it has gone backwards. We arrived in Broken Hill Saturday afternoon and there was no vacancies in any of the motor camps as there was a large vintage caravan rally, and the agricultural show on the next weekend. Rang Lance and Lorraine and they sent us up to their friends, now our friends, Judy and Phil. They have 2 acres just on the outskirts of Broken Hill. Nice and quiet. Ending up staying there for a week. Weather packed up and it rained most of the time so couldn’t get out to the Station to stay as the road was too boggy. We got stuck once before when it rained out there. So we spent most of our time at Lance and Lorraine’s house in the town. We played cards, table tennis, had dinners, and drinks and of course a lot of laughs. Fridge still isn’t going so well so we were going to buy some new batteries but the guy said ours were fine and no need. So tried to get a fridge man to look at the fridge but to no avail. Nearest one Adelaide or Perth. Robert went out to the station with Lance for the day to check on things. By Saturday the weather wasn’t getting any better so we got on the road, and we are really disappointed I didn’t get to go to the station for a few days. We called in to see Ray and Debbie at Peterbourgh and then headed to Port Augusta. Still raining and very cold at night. We are all wrapped up and have our hot water bottles and have flannette sheets on. Getting a bit sick of the weather. At our next freedom camp the roadside was a bit sticky and we were ok because we had a 4WD but the bus and boat didn’t. It was raining and he was stuck fast. We tried to help but the light got the better of us as did the rain. So we left it till morning. When we went to use the winch it wouldn’t work so had to tow the bus out with the snap strap and then the boat. We spent some time in Port Augusta which is a very nice petty town with a huge river going through. The only thing the early settlers spoil it and it’s not as clean as it could be. That night we stopped at a little town called Kimba. What a nice place sort of a ghost town. The recreation park is huge and is a freedom spot with good toilets and showers. Still freezing at night but the rain has stopped. We then went down the road about 150kms to the mini Ayers Rock. We stayed here for 3 nights and the sun came out. Still the fridge wouldn’t go through the night so we knew it was the batteries. We went to the Gawlers Rangers and they were spectacular. Stone dams, old homesteads built of stone, sawn rocks and nice water falls because of all the rain. We had to really 4WD on the way back through the back road. Slipping and sliding all over the place when we hit the black soil. Another couple with no experience in 4WD driving were coming up that afternoon and we thought they might have got stuck as they didn’t get home till dark, but they were told by rangers if they weren’t experienced no to go the way we did. So all well that ends well. It is so green usually it is brown and barren. We arrive in Ceduna in the morning about 10 and went to find some batteries. The weather here is great 24 degrees and sunny. Finally located some a lot cheaper than Broken Hill ones and hope they are OK. Walked around the town, shopped and tried to get the winch fixed but they told us a big job and they had to take the bull bar off, so we decided not to get it done. By the time I rang home, paid the bills, etc it was 5 pm before we left here. So we only went 30 km’s down the road and pulled off onto a side road and stayed the night. So many truck and trailers, really noisy buggars at night.
We loved driving the Nullabor. The scenery is great and changes all the time again it is so green at the moment. One 100km you have salt bush (salt bush is bluish in colour and eaten by sheep) and then scrub, then trees. We listened to an audio book most of the time and that helps time go by. The amount of caravans on the road in incredible, going both ways. Drove down and watched the whale and the viewing point and the cliffs are magnificent, so huge and not easy to climb I wouldn’t think. Stayed the night on the cliff edge and it was raining again, but the wind that was predicted didn’t come. Fridge going well now. The red dust here turns to mud and its sets like concrete when it gets on the truck. Washed it off at Ceduna but its back on again now. The next day the wind came up and no one could stay on the cliff edge so we missed it by a day. Called in to see Pats daughter Paula at Norseman BP but she had a day off and was in Kalgoorlie for the day. So had lunch there, all that was open as it was Saturday and Norseman not a big place. Stayed the night 25 km up the road and then the next day headed to Coolgardie. A real nice old town, near to a ghost town but very clean and friendly. Only 40 km’s for Kalgoorlie but we decided to stop for the day and explore the town, what there is of it and get a good night’s sleep away from the traffic at the 24 hour freedom stop. We arrived here at Kalgoorlie at 8.20 am and booked into a motor camp the first since we left. Nice and quiet, off the main road, and we can fill up with water and recharge all batteries including our own. Found a man who could fix the winch which took him hour and half and didn’t have to take off the roo bar. Didn’t want to go into the bush without it working. The weather here is great it’s 24 and only goes down to 14 at night so far. I bought a pro-finder to help us pin point the gold when we find it, and a hip strap for me so I won’t have such a sore back and shoulder. Rob then decided he wanted one to so we went back today and got him one too. Robs blood pressure is up so he is taking it easy and may have to increase his medication. Well, yes Roger, after 4 loads of washing, a huge grocery shop as we need to stock up so we can stay out in the bush longer, and the fuel filled, gas bottles filled I think we are ready to go bush. Leonora, nearest town to where we are going is very small, has a supermarket but more expensive. Will update more when we get out of the bush, as I don’t know if we will have internet out here, I doubt it. We are both looking forward to this experience. Hope we are a little successful, but If not well we will enjoy it anyhow.
Part 2: 9 June 2014
Well it was a false reading on the heart monitor that caused us to believe Robs Blood pressure was up. Batteries were on their way out. Learnt a good lesson here, check batteries.
When we arrived in Leonora we noticed the town had gotten smaller with most of the shops having closed down. There is a Post Office/office supplies, supermarket, 2 service stations with small shops in them, one Coles express which is cheaper than the supermarket, only it doesn’t have fruit and veg. Pharmacy, Hospital and mines department and a very large Police Dept. The Mine department was our first stop. Tracey the lady I spoke to from NZ was very nice and helpful. Just as we arrived a couple was leaving and heard we were from NZ as they were to and they asked us over for a cuppa after we finished there. So we got the maps we wanted and then went over to meet Val and Alan from Whangarei. A real nice couple, just bought a house here in Leonora instead of a caravan. Another couple came in and they were from Kerikeri and they live here. We agreed to call in and see them when we came back into town and exchanged phone numbers. We stayed at Malcom Dam which is 10kms east of Leonora. Really nice stop over for a few days to get to see the south end of the claim we are going on and drive through to the north end and find a place to camp. Well we did that and because of the rain we couldn’t get though the tracks so went around the main road through Leonora and 40kms North East out on the very good gravel road to the turnoff to the claim. Robert said the power steering isn’t working and he heard a funny noise. We lifted up the bonnet and all the power steering oil had gone. No power steering. Shit, we both said then looked for some oil, I always say Rob carries to much rubbish but in this case this oil saved us. We have been carry it around for 5 years. We filled the oil tank up and headed back into town we had to keep filling the tank up. Rang Alan to see if he knew a good place to go and he told us. So it turned out we had a pin hole in the master pipe. Ordered a new one from Perth and it would take several days to get here. We had to use the truck as is but could only go 20 kms on a tank of oil if we didn’t make too many turns. So back to the dam and waited. We did go out to detect about 10kms away but the turning on the track was no good for the oil and it leaked everywhere again. So didn’t use the truck again until the day the part arrived and we got it fixed. We did however, walk to a few spots around the dam but alas nothing was found. One week later and $1400 and we had a truck again. Friday we packed up, filled up with fuel, groceries and water and headed back out to the claim at the North end. Found nice spot to camp or so we thought then checked the coordinates and found we were on the only piece of land we weren’t allowed so had to shift, but only a 1km up the road. Nice spot, plenty of fire wood. Walked and drove to spots to detect for the next week. Rob found a good piece one day and I found another the next. Not only did we detect but we drove for miles investigating the cliffs, and abandoned stations. So much land with no animals on for years so its good condition. We met a man who was looking at the station to buy. After a week we left to go back to the dam so we could go to the races, etc. There was a Golden Gift weekend, horse racing, running races, parades, fireworks etc. For a small town of 1200 the population quadrupled for the weekend. Got dressed up, and off we went. We met our friends at the race meeting, from Esperance south west of Perth, they have horses. We got talking to a chap called Kim and he was very friendly, had then met some more horse owners. Everyone knows everyone here. Ran into Val and Alan and Pat and Steven. Real great group of people. Won some, lost some but all and all it was a great day. Went up town to the White Horse pub for dinner, hardly anyone there. The within an hour the dining room filled up. Went back to the bar which was empty when we came in and you couldn’t move. Met Kim again and his wife was with him. She is the new manager of Coles Express, very nice Asian lady, Bee is her name. Watched a few heats of the mile running races, winner of the men’s and ladies get $6000 each. Then 7.30 the fireworks, we parked right under where they were letting them off, no automation here, running from display to display to light each one, really interesting viewing. The paddock caught fire with the fire brigade being called and little native children running everywhere. Really entertaining. Into town to watch activities for next two days. Monday was the second day of horse racing, so went along. Real country race day. Hardly anyone here, all Saturday crowd had to drive back for work Tuesday. Race one was delayed with power cut, race two because there was no doctor on the course, so couldn’t run the race until he came. Race three, the doctor had to leave again so once more delays. We left also, with a little, very little profit this time. Not great pay-outs here. Next day we were out in the field again. We had met a guy on the track called Wayne a few days back and he called in to say hello and have a beer. When we had been out on the claim we had seen a bulldozer and it was his. So he told us to come out in the next week and see what he did. We went out prospecting and looking around for the next week. Rob found another nice piece and the next day I found a very nice piece. We then decided to detect around that area together and see if we could find anymore. Well after plenty of digs and getting nothing but rust, small wire etc, I heard a different sound. So Rob got digging and it got louder, then when we had it out of the hole, about a spade depth, I saw and felt this heavy lump of dirt in my hand, well it was a ½ ounce of gold. We were really happy. If you were in ear shot you would have heard us. But I bet us could image me getting excited. So happy. Kept going for a while then came back the next day but no more to be found. Truck going fine, weather has been great, warm in the day but cold at night. We have adapted to this now and put the generator on for 2 hours, to warm the van up with the heater. We have TV here only 9 channels so we put up with that I suppose. Very good telephone reception as well. We are having a slow day to day to get over yesterday. We have a walking talking, and a GPS each so we feel safe. If only some of us would practice and get used to using the GPS it would be a lot easier. We went out yesterday for a few hours detecting. I did 2 hours got back to the truck as arranged a little late, so Radioed Robert, but he was not sure where he was, or should I say where the truck was. I understood how he felt as I had been in that position before but didn’t have a GPS. He said his GPS wasn’t working right. I talked him through it and he found the track but then said he was going the wrong way and didn’t understand it. He turned out he was following his own tracks back instead of the GPS line to the truck. I then asked him for his coordinates of where he was and told him to stay there not to move. I could then find out where he was on my GPS. I drove the tracks until I found the area and then he called up and said he could see the truck. He was relieved, so was I. Thank goodness for GPS because he was in a totally different area than he should have been I would never have looked for him there. All’s well that ends well. It’s quite cold today so good time catch up on my diary. Robert has taken his GPS out for a walk so he can practice, this is what I tried to get him to do weeks ago. But he thought he knew his directions. It’s ok out in the area if all the shrubs didn’t look the same and there was something you could relate back to like a big hill or river or something, but there is only shrub, and dead shrub that all look the same..
Part 3 up to 12th August 2014
Well it has been full on over here. We had a few days off and took the van down to Lake Ballard, about 250 km’s away and where the sculptures are. They are incredible, have always seen them in books and photos but never got to see them the other times we have been here. We were only going to spend one day here but had such a lovely spot and lovely views over the Lake, Dry of course, the lake that is, we stayed 3 nights. Made our way back to Leonora by Mt Ida, it’s the back road. We stayed one night in the bush and detected but no luck. Called in to see Val and Al and then to stay on the pet farm. While we were at Val and Al’s we met another couple Pete and Chrissy. They are in their 70’s. Old prospector. They had just bought a computer and couldn’t it to do what they wanted to, so I spent 2 hours with them showing them how to use it. They invited us to go and stay at their place for a few days. So when we came back from Lake Ballard we went to stay with Peter and Chrissy. Well talk about MacDonald’s Farm. It has nothing on this place. One sheep, heaps of Geese, 4 dogs, heaps of hens, and roosters, and of course Kangaroos. Chrissy helps injured animals back to health. At the moment she has a baby Kangaroo so cute, has to get up at night and feed it. They are really nice couple. I gave them another couple of lessons on the computer. Pete then took us out to a place where he got some nice gold, but alas we didn’t get any. Stayed 2 nights. Couldn’t sleep as the goose were having their way with each other and the roosters learning to crow started at 4.30am. So back to the Dam where it is quiet. It’s becoming our second home. We went back detecting to the place we found the ½ ounce gold and not much joy. But then after 2 days I found a nice specimen. That is Iron ore with gold in. Nowhere near as good as last one but still it’s very pretty. It was about 100meters away from the other piece. We met up with Wayne again and where he was grading didn’t work out very well so he shifted. Went to several other places. Not only detecting but you know Robert he has to look around for ages
After a week we decided it was time to leave Leonora and get on the road that was the 25th June. We packed up and went to say bye to Val and Al and that’s as far as we got. They invited us to stay for pork roast, and stay in their yard for the night. Then that night we decided to go out to gold fields together for a couple of nights. Well nearly a week went by and we were still there. Having big fires and lots of laughs each night. The other couple that live here Steve and Pat from Kerikeri also came out for two nights over the weekend. Al found a great 1 ounce piece, what excitement, we were so happy for him but wished it was one of us. It was a lovely clean piece. Val found a few nice pieces. I wasn’t leaving until I found something. Then I found another 3 pieces. So satisfied we packed up and said our goodbyes to Val and Al, on the 3rd July and we turned left towards Leinster. Did some grocery shopping as were getting low on some things, then onto Sandstone. Thought we would give this area a go for a week. Well how different this is to Leonora. Shop in pub and very expensive. Not a very big town and as friendly. Stayed in the caravan park because it was cheap and we needed to do washing etc. So did 5 loads of washing the first day, washed the caravan inside as it was red with dust. Then for the next 3 days we went out looking for gold. Never found any here. I was stuffed and stayed in bed all day, back needs a jolt and arms and shoulders sore. Need a good massage. Still all well apart from that. After a week we left Sandstone and headed back to Leinster where we had to stock up, as we had run out of nearly anything. Leinster is a company town so the food is quite reasonable and it’s a clean and friendly town. We worked here in 1977. Then we turned left again and headed up to Wiluna. We stayed on the road that night and it was very quiet about 50 km’s from Wiluna. We knew we were heading into a not so good town. Robert has always wanted to go the Canning Stock Route and this is the start of it. We are going to go 300kms on it tomorrow. Wiluna is a place you don’t want to stop. It’s awful. The police and others advice you not to leave your van unsupervised and I can see why. The town is full of rubbish and dogs. This must be the worst town in Aussie. It’s differently the worst one we have been to. We are staying in a van park, if you can call it that. 12 km’s outside Wiluna. The pamphlets make it look like an Oasis in the desert but it is just another bush camp but you pay through the nose for it. The caravan park in town is next to the pub and hasn’t been looked after for years, so run down. Here they have a full time caretaker so when we go away tomorrow the van should be safe. Still are only here for two nights. Then we have to decide whether we go up to Broome and across the top or back to Leonora for a few weeks and then back across the Nulabour towards Coolangatta and the ocean and civilization.
Well I would call Wiluna not only the filthiest but the biggest rip off town and people who take advantage others just because they can. There is rubbish everywhere and dogs by the dozen. The Shire tells you where you can go but neglect to tell us it will cost. We didn’t want to stay at camp next to the pub in Wiluna so went 14kms out of town to a bush camp. Pamphlets tell a different story and it costs more than the city camps. But at least the caravan will be safe tomorrow when we go up the Canning Stock Route. We left at 7am next morning and got back to the van at 6.30pm. It was well worth the drive. By the time you have travelled 275 km’s on the Start of the Canning Stock Route which consists of dirt tracks which changes from rocks, sand, dirt or ruts, and anything in between and with only 2 breaks for m/tea and lunch, along with a few get outs, stretch and look at the wells and rock hills etc you are stuffed. We went 100 km’s in 4.5 hours. Then Robert decided to go on another 100km’s but this time the track was a little better and we averaged 30 km’s an hour. Then we turned off the Canning Stock Route onto a road which in turn took us to the Gun Barrell Highway, where we were staying. Another 245 km’s of dirt tracks/roads. Well we got 70km’s down this road and then came to a station house where we had to stop and pay $30.00 to go another 20 km’s. No information about this to us when we inquired at the Shire Council the day before. Then the lady who charged us told us the owner was the Shire president. Diesel is 30 cents more than 170km’s down the road. We are both buggered and tonight as we lay down we still feel like we are in the car travelling or should I say bumping around. I don’t think I want to drive the full 2000km’s of Canning Stock Route though. 10% WAS ENOUGH FOR ME.
Well we stayed that night at the camp site and then set off but which way to go. Do we turn left back to Leonora way or right out to Meekathara which is another 250 of bad gravel road and up to Broome? It is 32 degrees in Broome already so after much debate we both thought going back to Leonora and back over the Nullabor was the way to go. Maybe a little more gold to be had.
Stopped overnight 40 km’s out of Leonora and did a little detecting but nothing here. The next day back to Malcolm dam after filling up with water, getting groceries and fuel. Not many at the dam this time. One chap Peter was still there from the last time we were here. Al and Val call in to see us for Afternoon tea and said they would come out to the Bruce’s claim if we go out and stay. We went out the next day and I found 3 more pieces in my patch so we decided to take the van out the next day. We looked for a place to put the van and found this nice spot and there beside a tree was a stainless steel dunny pan. Rob dug a hole and put it on 2 pieces of branches which weren’t that sturdy but they did. I have expected him to fall down the hole any time. We stayed there for 11 days. Robert found 2 pieces and I found another 6 pieces. Just over an ounce in all. Not much but OK for new comers to the area, or so we are told. Al and Val came out for 3 nights and Al found 2 nice pieces. We played cards it was 500 Rob and I against them. Well we won but it was so much fun, laughed all the way through. Had big camp fires and cooked outside most nights. The day before we left the camp we did a huge washing, Val and Al had given us there water when they went home so we had heaps to wash with. But lack of agitator washing machine (unlike Robert who had a stainless steel dunny)I had to do it by hand. Sheets, towels and clothes (for your information Roger) but they still they looked red. We had arranged to go to Lake Goongarrie with Al and Val on the Thursday. We left on Wednesday from the claim and it was Al’s birthday so we all went out to dinner in Leonora and then left on Thursday for the salt Lake. It is about 70kms form Kalgoorlie. Seeing we had made our minds up that it was time to leave it was on our way. We stayed on the Lake for 2 nights, detected but it was so noisy couldn’t do it. Val and Al stayed one night as they were on their way to Kalgoorlie to do shopping.
Didn’t know where we would go, choices were Ora Banda, where I got my nice piece around my neck from, Perth to see Lorraine or head back to the East. We were only 850km’s for Lorraine Hutchinson (nee Cotterill) so thought we might as well take a detour and go and see her. We arrived at her place the next afternoon and had a lovely roast lamb for dinner. Rob cleaned both the van and truck outside and I did the inside of the van and washed everything I could. It is amazing how clean it all came. Even some of the whites no look more white than red. We went to Mandrah for lunch then a drive to Preston Beach and to see the Thormolites. (not sure if that is the correct spelling I will have to ask Lorraine) Living rocks that make oxygen. We also saw these up at Exmouth but they were in salt water there, here they are in a fresh water lake and a lot larger. We played cards, Rob and Lorraine drunk red wine. Owen came over to see us. A good time was had by all. Rob won the cards the last night, the only night he played. The dogs snored while we watched TV. We left there on Friday morning after the fog lifted. The weather was great except for one day of rain. We drove back up to the Coolgardie through the back roads, which was 100km’s shorter but took the same time, as the main motorway and highway but it was slower driving. The scenery was stunning. First you go through a canopy of trees for miles then flat, open fields that were so green. What a change from red dust for 14 weeks, it was nice to see. They call it the wheat belt. We stayed one night on the road just east of Merredin and the second night, was Robs Birthday, we stayed at Boondi Rock, a huge rock in the middle of nowhere, about 100km’s west of Coolgardie. We called in to see Paula, Pats daughter from the Gold Coast, then set off across the Nullarbor. We stayed the first night 50kms from Norseman at Neumann’s Rock yet another huge rock formation. It was quite windy and we thought we might have to wait it out until the weather calmed down. But in the morning after a very cold night the sun was out and the wind had stopped. So we got off to an early start, for us anyway, about 8am. We had a good run until about 3.30pm when the wind got up again so we stopped for the night and repeated the last 24 hours. We stopped along the way several times to admire the view and the changes along the Nullarbor all the while listening to our audio stories. It makes the trip go so make faster and nowhere near boring. Pull over spots here are very good and away from the road a bit so you don’t hear the trucks going past. They do not travel so much between the hours of 10 and 4am but then they start up again. We stopped on the cliff face again for lunch and to admire the white steep cliffs and sand dunes in the distance. I love the Nullarbor it is so interesting. We saw fox, emus with chicks but this time no camels. Plenty of Kangaroo. We arrived at Ceduna which is a very clean and friendly town today and we loved seeing and smelling the ocean and salt air. After all the red dust and barren land it is so good to see green hills and fields and blue water. It is still very cold at night but the days are nice. Still a bit colder down here than Leonora. So we can’t wait to get up the apartment and the beach and civilization.
Will put the photos on when I can get a little bit better reception on the internet. We have TV for the first time in ages. So I will be able to catch up on the news. I will make sure I am in range on Saturday for the Bledisloe Cup match.